Savouring Seville: A Culinary Journey
Some culinary tips to inspire you on a visit to Seville
Seville is a city where history, culture, and food come together in perfect harmony. My recent trip left me enchanted by its orange tree-lined clean streets, stunning sights, and exceptional culinary experiences. Here are my highlights to inspire your own gastronomic journey through this Andalusian gem.
A City of History and Beauty
Exploring Seville is like stepping into a living museum. Climbing the Giralda Tower offered breathtaking views, while wandering through the Real Alcázar transported me to a world of intricate Moorish architecture. We went for the light show (Jan 2035) at night there as the daytime tickets were booked out up to a week in advance! The narrow streets of Barrio Santa Cruz, shaded by orange trees and filled with charming squares, were a delight to stroll through. Our favourite spot her was Cafe bar Las Terases, which you can see in the photo above. Iberico hams hanging over the bar area, freshly cut for a tapas plate or a sharing plate.
Triana’s Culinary Delights
The vibrant neighborhood of Triana was a standout for its authentic flavours and lively atmosphere. At the indoor farmers market, the pintxos—colourful skewers of meats, cheeses, and pickled vegetables—were a visual and culinary delight. Pairing these with a glass of local vermouth made for a perfect midday treat. There were many vendors selling all types of food and even a cookery school where you can get a cookery class.
Later, I indulged in traditional dishes at Las Golondrinas, a no-frills spot beloved by locals. The slow-cooked pork cheek stew here was rich and comforting—a true taste of Andalusian cuisine. I also tried the grilled squid, cod with tomato, pepper salad and local aged cheese. By 2pm there were queues outside so we were lucky to get seats at the counter when we arrived a half hour earlier!
El Rinconcillo: A Taste of History
Dining at El Rinconcillo, the oldest tapas bar in Seville at 350 years old, was a highlight of the trip. The service was impeccable, and the dishes were a testament to Seville’s culinary heritage. I recommend trying the spinach with chickpeas, fried calamari, paella rice, and croquettes. Pair your meal with a glass of sherry for the full experience. Each time you visit a tapas bar they give you a basket with bread and a packet of bread sticks, the cost of this can vary but the bread sticks really do work with the rich food!
Another tapas bar, popular with locals and not far from the Cathedral is Bodeguita Casablanca: Ideal for tapas and people-watching. The fried squid here was the best I tried in Seville. It can be difficult to get a spot and was closed at weekends.
After all the culinary delights, a walk around Plaza de España and Parque de Maria Luisa is a great idea. It is a stunning place as you can see in the first photo in this blog. You can also get a horse and cart ride around it. Note, to use the toilet you need 60c and you cannot tap or get change of notes.
Night time, flamenco shows tend to be on at 19h or 20.30h before locals head out to the bars and restaurants. There are a few locations but you would need to book, Tablao el Arenal, Tablao los Gallos, Tablao El Patio Sevillano, we went for the more intimate venue of Tablao Albarez Quintero.
Sweets and Sophistication
The Pastéis de nata, a small egg custard tart, with quite a history in Portugal can be found in open bakeries in Seville. Chefs can be seen backing batches of these irresistible tarts all day long. You will easily spot the locations as there are usually queues of customers all day in search of these delicious freshly baked tarts. The crisp, caramelised pastry and creamy filling were the perfect companion to a morning coffee or an afternoon stroll. There were several gelato shops too but as it was December and not too hot I didn't try any of them.
For an elevated dining experience, the tasting menu at Abantal was unforgettable. Each course was a blend of creativity and tradition, beautifully presented and expertly paired with local wines. What a way to celebrate my 50th birthday! I have heard great reports on Cañabota but they were closed when we were in Seville.
Practical Tips for Visitors
- Timetable: Seville’s meals start late—plan lunch around 1:30 PM and dinner after 8:30 PM.
- Tapas Culture: Share plates with friends to sample as many flavors as possible.
- Drinks: Don’t miss the refreshing Tinto de Verano, local wines, or a classic vermouth.
- Book: You will need to book the cathedral and the Royal Alcázar in advance, both well worth it.
Seville’s culinary landscape is as vibrant and diverse as its history. From pintxos in Triana to fine dining at Abantal, and traditional dishes at El Rinconcillo, there’s something to satisfy every palate. It is also great value lolvey glasses of wine for under €5 and tapas were typically €2.50- €5.
Plan your visit, savour each bite, and let Seville capture your heart. The flights from Dublin are at convenient times, there are lots of airbnb places to stay in the city. For a special occasion, I can recommend Hotel Casa 1880.
Buen provecho!
